Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Some Things God is Doing
Saturday, December 12, 2009
It's Been A While
Well, it’s been a crazy several weeks! First, there was the Kurban Bayram holiday, which gave us Thursday afternoon, Friday and Monday off. During this holiday, I visited the towns of Hasankeyf, Mardin, and Şanlıurfa. It was quite a trip. Mardin was definitely my favorite city, because every single building, be it residence or business, is old stonework from who knows how long ago! Pics are available at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2390855&id=12622428.
“Bayram” is a general term for a religious holiday or festival. This particular occasion involved the slaughter of hundreds of sheep, the meat of which is cooked, eaten, and given to the poor. Everyone does this in their own home; they get together with friends and family to celebrate and “cut a sheep” as some of them have explained it to me. I actually saw quite a few grisly sheep deaths during the day that Friday!
The very next weekend, my Tourist visa was up, and since our administration could not give us clear answers about when our residence permits would be ready, three of us who were in the same boat took a day and a night’s trip to Northern Cyprus, which was also amazing! The whole ordeal was rather frustrating, but since it’s resolved now, I won’t go into too much detail. It is resolved not only because I renewed my tourist visa by leaving the country and coming back, but a few days later, we received our residence permits!
We don’t have our work visas, however, which is sort of contradictory, considering the residence permit says we are here to work! Oh well. Meanwhile, work continues as usual. There is probably quite a bit more to say, since it’s been so long, but for now, this will have to suffice. Hopefully from now on, I’ll be updating this blog a little more frequently.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Language and Culture Notes
Time
In Turkey, not unlike many other cultures that aren’t American, the concept of time is a little bit more fluid. This can lead to frustration but can also be freeing and a lot of fun. As an example, Saturday night I went to a birthday party for one of my Turkish colleagues. To go, we met at a central location (most came five to ten minutes AFTER the stated time, of course) and went to buy a present on the way to her apartment. So we walked leisurely around the neighborhood in search of a place to buy a useful present, which of course meant we were much later arriving than we intended to be. But, through that, I discovered all kinds of interesting shops and things near my own apartment. It was pretty amazing, and all due to the lack of feeling pressured by time.
Language
There are a few things I’ve noticed about the language that aren’t in the teaching books. Some are probably dialectal issues specific to Gaziantep, but others are just things you wouldn’t learn except by being here. So here are a few notes:
yok: the books say it means “there isn’t any,” which is true. But here in Antep, at least, it’s used to mean “no,” which is understandable, since the official word for “no” is kind of long: it’s “hayır.”
tamam: this is by far the most useful word in the whole if the Turkish language. It means “okay,” and you can use it for anything! Hurt your knee by falling off the curb in front of the market? Get up, dust yoursefl off, and tell the onlookers, “Tamam!” Talking on the phone, and want to let the person on the other end know that you’re listening? “Tamam, tamam.” And the list goes on...
Religion
Of course, everyone is Muslim here. But it’s interesting learning more about Islam, which I’ve only know the bare basics of before. But it’s also interesting to see the things that remain from, I assume, pre-Islamic times. There are a lot of references to genies in the culture, for example.
But the most interesting thing to me is the source of evil. The gift we ended up buying was a ring from a jewelry store. At the store, there were lots of items with Quranic verses, which, I was told, were prayers for protection from evil. This, combined with the ubiquity of the evil eye, pictures of which are hung everywhere to ward it away, made me think about the source of evil in Turkish culture.
From these examples, it seems that the source of evil is always external. This marks a huge difference from Christianity, where the source of evil is internal: it is the natural human inclination. Of course, Christians don’t always acknowledge this or live it out, either, but it is fundamental to the faith. And you can’t be a Christian without acknowledging your own evil heart.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Rain in Antep
November 2, 2009
After the first two months with absolutely no rain (except for a shower or two that lasted all of ten minutes once in a great while), rain has come to Antep, somewhat with a vengeance. The rain isn’t nearly as fierce as it would be, in say, Florida, but it is constant. Even when it isn’t actually falling, it remains overcast and dreary all day long. This makes for very sleepy weather.
The first term of English classes, meanwhile, is drawing to a close. Today marked the beginning of Week six of eight. And week eight consists of final exams, so it’s really only this week and next that we have for language learning. I’m sure a number of my students will fail, but several will pass, especially in my second class.
We had last Thursday off for Republic Day, but then had to return to work on Friday. There were very few students here, as many of them had returned home or elsewhere for the holiday. So one of my colleagues had planned on showing a movie, and was able to show it in the auditorium so that students who were here could watch. Since we had been learning food words, the movie was Ratatouille. Good thing, because, I confess, I had not done much planning for Friday.
In fact, the past week has been quite eventful, but not in any way you might think. I now have a girlfriend. It’s not really so sudden as it seems, as I met Christina before I left, and we have been in frequent contact since I’ve been here. In fact, I’ve spoken to her more than I have to anyone in my own family! We were both clearly interested in each other, but I was hesitant to start a relationship when I was so far away and uncertain what the future held.
But before we made our relationship official, I had been considering my academic interests, which have come to revolve around identity and the ways that literature and language play a role in shaping it or communicating it. As I thought for the hundredth time about this, and wondered how it fit with my desire to join Wycliffe Bible Translators, it suddenly occurred to me that this interest in identity and its reflection or shaping through language and literature were not at all incompatible. In fact, because I think of identity as a very spiritual thing, my academic and missional interests stem from the same source. With this realization, I felt free to pursue Wycliffe, and consequently, Christina ;).
I had a brief dilemma regarding the church I’ve been attending here, when they announced a Benny Hinn conference being held in Istanbul soon. Benny Hinn’s theology is terrible, and it’s hard not to see him as a money-grubbing false prophet. However, the pastor of the church here and his wife could not do their work in a fairly barren place such as this - that is, in a predominantly Muslim country - without succor from the true God. So I will continue going, though I have yet to determine what role I can play in Christ’s kingdom here.
On a more positive note, there are new people at the church every time I attend. This absolutely amazes me, as I would not imagine there could be so much interest in Christianity in a Muslim country. When I mentioned this to the pastor, he said that it isn’t a problem getting new people to come, it’s a problem getting them to stay. I’m still so blown away by the fact that they come at all that it’s hard for me to acknowledge the obvious discouragement I heard in his voice. So that is a matter for prayer: that the gospel would not just be seed on a rock or among thorns, but that it would find good soil, and grow deep in people’s hearts.
Finally, last Wednesday, my co-teacher and I were invited out to one of our students’s homes for dinner. After I checked to be sure this was acceptable in this culture, I agreed to go. That made for a fascinating experience. I felt as though I got to see how a real Turkish family lives. But there were darker tinges to the experience as well. When we arrived, our student’s father attempted first to talk to me, because I was another man. The only problem, of course, is that I don’t speak very much Turkish. He was forced to communicate to Elif, which he was obviously uncomfortable doing. He couldn’t even look her in the eyes. Once we arrived at their home, it was the mother’s and the children’s duties to serve, and the father’s to make sure everyone was being served. This was not so bad in and of itself, as its simple hospitality, but it still brought to mind thoughts of repression, in that it is not an option for the mother or daughter to serve in any other capacity.
So it has been raining here in Antep, in many ways. Rain is always, for me, a cause for reflection. There is dreariness, and perhaps sorrow to a degree, but mostly a drive to contemplation. So it is the perfect occassion to post this.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Spiritual Voids
Saturday night a group of us went out dancing, to the one club that exists in Antep. I tried to loosen up and enjoy myself as much as possible, but the reality is, the night was a good reminder of why I never really got into secular party culture. As I looked around, all I could see was hurting people, desparation, and escapism. There is no true joy in that atmosphere.
Now, I do not think it is necessarily wrong for a Christian to go clubbing, but for me, I couldn’t handle it on any regular basis. It’s too depressing, seeing the soullessness of the experience. Customers at a dance club may be having fun, but it doesn’t pierce to their soul. At least that’s how it seems to me.
The worst thing is that we were sharing the dance floor with real live prostitutes. One of the girls who was with us, who works at a cafe near our apartments, told me after we had danced some, “You can find Russian girls here.” I had heard about the “Russian girls” in Antep before. “They are working,” the girl told me, which just confirmed it. Then she asked if I like Russian girls. “Not like that,” I told her.
But again, just knowing that some of the women there live that kind of lifestyle broke my heart a bit. These women will never have the chance to experience true life. They will always be trapped in a lifestyle of being objects, tools for men to satisfy a desire that is only a shadow of the real relationship with other human beings, and ultimately, with God Himself, the desire for which lies at the heart of their hurt, if they only knew it. It’s horrible that these women will most likely never know true humanity.
It made me think of the Samaritan women at the well. Her five husbands, and the lover she had when Jesus spoke to her, labelled her as lascivious. As a marginalized people, there were surely all kinds of stereotypes about the Samaritans. Could one of them have been that all Samaritan women are “loose women”? If so, then Jesus’s encounter with this woman was that much more a display of grace.
I say so because, in the liberal mindset that demands political correctness and never saying ill of a people group, there is a sort of morality that says it’s wrong to stereotype, but if a particular individual fulfills that stereotype, then he is even more wrong, because his actions reflect poorly on an entire people. In other words, if the stereotype is accurate in a particular case, it’s okay to marginalize that particular case. It’s a double standard, really.
But in the case of the Samaritan woman, if indeed there were such a stereotype, Jesus not only went against culture by talking to a Samaritan, a woman, and a promiscuous one at that, but also by talking to someone who fulfilled a stereotype, whom even supposedly tolerant modern liberal morality would accuse.
On the whole, this night club experience was a glimpse into the darkness that grips this city. So pray for Antep. Pray that the gospel would loosen the grip of darkness. Pray that I might have opportunities to share this view with my colleagues and friends here, that the gospel might be reflected through conversations about it.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Students and Such
October 16, 2009
After rather frequent updates, I seem to have left everyone out of the loop for a while. Blame it on suddenly missing internet routers in our apartment, business as we’ve really gotten into the swing of things here, and the simple fact that I didn’t want to make so many updates. Today is Friday, though, so it’s as good a time as any.
Students
I teach two classes, the same level and subject, which is Communication, level A. Communication classes focus on Speaking, Listening, and Reading, as well as Vocabulary. Level A is the lowest level, where students have esentially no English. However, that’s not strictly true. My first class has less English than my second class. A recurring problem for me has been the second class’s quickly plowing through all the activities I have planned, and having extra time at the end. Even when I have extra activities for them, they seem to get through them with ten minutes to spare.
Because we teach using the communicative method at Zirve, which involves game-like activities and group work, pair work, or what have you, our students have trouble taking things seriously. So in my second class especially, they always want to get out early, and even earlier than the ten minutes that we have when they finish everything. I absolutey refuse to let them out thirty minutes early, though. I might be willing to let them go ten minutes early occasionally, but the other is ridiculous.
To combat this, I’ve tried simply planning additional or harder activities, or multiple parts to the same activity, but still, ten minutes before time is officially up, they are usually done. They spend so much time pleading with me to let them go that they might as well stay the extra ten minutes to play another game, though. My co-worker Judy had a great idea though. Yesterday, since she’s been having the same problem, she told her students that if they could form the question correctly, they could leave. What they usually say is something like: “Teacher, finished? Go to home?” So Judy made them ask the question correctly before letting them go. I didn’t try that today, but I will next week.
Because there is the perception that our classes are a joke, I’ve begun to be stricter in general. Next week, I will start kicking people out if they aren’t prepared - meaning, they haven’t done their homework or they don’t have the books, etc. And that will count as an absence for them, of which they can only have five before it’s possible for them to be dismissed from the University. I should have started this week, but there have been problems having the right amount of books available for the students, pricing, and all sorts of what have you.
Such
So that’s life teaching Turkish students. In other news, it seems that every time we go out, we go to a new teahouse, each more wonderful than the last. There are some real hidden gems here, as per my last blog post. Last Sunday, one other teacher and I spent time with some of the students at Gaziantep University (NOT Zirve, so there is no conflict of interest), and went to a couple of different teahouses in the same night. In fact, we were out much later than we should have been with school the next morning. But the most interesting part of it was the diversity of the group. There was an Italian, a Spaniard, an Iraqi, two Americans, and four or so native Turks. It’s always amazing and interesting experience when abroad, meeting people from all over the world, not just the particular country where you happen to be.
Last couple of things: tonight, October 17th, we had a cookout, with a grill on the top floor. It was pretty good, and reminded us all of home, I think. Future plans include holiday parties for Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, etc. It should be fun. I’ll certainly let you know how it goes.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Hidden Gems
Friday night, after our second week of classes, several of us got together and went out for tea. The place we went was pretty amazing. We started out by going to the city center, the downtown area, with which I’m pretty familiar now. But not familiar enough, apparently. We took a right of the main drag up a slight hill with lights in the middle of the street, towards the copper smith’s bazaar, where we had also been before. But suddenly, for no apparent reason, we took a left into a nondescript doorway, with nothing to suggest what was beyond.
It turned out to be our destination, a lovely open air tea house in a small courtyard, surrounded by very lovely old buildings, and full of pomegranate trees. So before anything else - before even bringing the cay, which is an anamoly in Turkey - they brought a couple armfuls of pomegranate, and the knives to cut them with. The knives quickly became fodder for silly photographs, and they were useful for cutting the pomegranate, too.
Before I came, I had read that backgammon was a popular game in Turkey, but I hadn’t seen it played very often, even though the boards are readily available at any tea house. But this night, a couple of my colleagues did play. I was too busy nursing a melon flavored nargile - that’s hookah, for the Yanks in my audience - to join in.
All in all, it was a lovely evening. We ate some baklava on the way back home, stopped at a park to take more silly photos, and crammed into a bus already too full before the eight or so of us got on. I came home at about midnight, stayed up another hour or so, then got up Saturday morning to play ultimate frisbee, and teach the Turks how to play it. Saturday afternoon has been just a pleasant time of relaxing so far. I even Skyped my dad, but the internet died right in the middle of our conversation. I could stand to do some more lesson planning and dishes, so maybe I’ll use this period of dead internet for that.
But the adventure with tea from last night just goes to show you that taking the slightest turn here can lead to some wonderful things. And it’s those slight turns that make all the frustrations and challenges worthwhile.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
A Very Rough Day
October 5, 2009 (Written yesterday when the internet was down, posted today, October 6, 2006).
What a day! Frustrations upon frustrations, it seems. First, there were all the usual problems of not having enough copies, copiers not working when you needed them, etc. Of course, these didn’t bother me so much because I’ve been planning my lessons assuming I wouldn’t have such luxuries. I’ve learned that much at least. But apparently I haven’t learned well enough.
The first frustration that affected me was that we were scheduled to have a meeting at 5:00, by which time we are supposed to be done working. However, God knows the bus schedule has changed every day since we’ve been here, getting later and later, so the meeting wouldn’t have interefered with getting home. But this was a problem fort me because it interfered with my plans to take my pay to a bank, and wire some of it home, exchanging the rest of it to use for the month.
The first proposed solution was simply to go and come back, but there was another meeting at 2:30, and supposedly we couldn’t miss either one. Fortunately, our coordinator was kind enough to allow us to miss the 2:30 meeting, so everything seemed fine. Buses leave every hour on the half hour, so a couple of us planned to leave at 1:30, take care of our banking, and be back in time for the meeting.
That was the plan, anyway. Enter frustration number two. I was at the bus, ready to board when I realized I had left the envelope full of my money in the secure drawer in my office. So I charged back up there, got it and came back, only to watch the 1:30 bus driving blissfully away. No problem, though, there would be another at 2:30, and I wasn’t the only one who needed to take care of banking who had missed the bus. No problem, right?
WRONG! Turns out that today, the bus schedule had changed such that there were no buses after 1:30 until the 5:30 one that takes us all home. Again, no problem. We can call a taxi and between the six of us, splitting the fare wouldn’t be so bad. Again, wrong. The security desk doesn’t know any numbers for taxis.
So I still haven’t done my banking (as of a qurter to 10 on October 5th). I’ll have to try again tomorrow. And to top it all off, the electricity and water went out at work today for a while.
Such a stressful day required some major stress relief, and it came as unexpectedly as all the problems. My neighbor and colleague seems to have developed a love for going out all the time, as much as is possible in Antep, anyway, so she was immediately asking upon our return what we should do tonight. Failing anything definitive, I suggested we get on a bus, see where it takes us and take a walk around the downtown area to see what’s shaking. At the least, I thought, it wouldn’t be hanging out in the apartments.
Enter another pair of Americans who live in our building, but are teachers at a primary school here. They were headed across the street to see some live music at Gaziantep University. So we joined them. The live music consisted of one guy playing guitar to a circle of friends and acquaintances, students at Gaz U, except of course, for us. So we sat in a circle in the grass under the stars, he played lots of songs, I played three or four, and it was a perfectly relaxing evening to follow one of the hardest days so far.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Brothers in Antep
The Tea Garden mentioned in my last post was raided sometime Friday! We were all severely saddened, as we need a new hangout spot. But another American, working at a local middle school contends that that’s just the way things work here in Turkey, and that it will probably be back in operation in no time.
Last Sunday and today, I experienced a Turkish fellowship group. It was a small, intimate affair, since the majority of people are Muslim, but it was enjoyable. It’s always a joy to find brothers and sisters with whom you can barely even communicate. But the assurance that they are closer to you than family remains nonetheless. You may have thought your congregation was tone-deaf, but I assure you, they’ve got nothing on these guys.
In fact, it’s quite difficult for them to be Christian in an Islamic country. They face the disapproval and rejection of their families, the scrutiny of a suspicious government, and they aren’t very likely to find an eligible spouse! The group was almost all men, with the exception of one whose wife was there as well. There were also a couple of Korean girls and Australian ladies, who, as I understand, were just visiting.
The difficulties these Turkish men face but which fail to overcome their faith drives it home that walking with Christ must really be worth it.
I returned again today, and even helped lead worship with my guitar. It is such a joy to be reminded of the beauty of the gospel, even when I can’t understand the language in which its beauty is being proclaimed.
I got connected to the with these friends through two independent sources. First, I had my church at home working their connections to find some kind of local body here with whom I could fellowship. Second, I met a lady and her grandson in the Chicago airport who were going to the same place I was. Turns out that both sources led to the same guy, and the same place. Knowing this city as well as I have come to know it so far, it doesn’t surprise me that there’s probably only one such body here. There are almost no Westerners here. But that’s actually a wonderful thing, because it means the city is unspoiled by endless catering to tourist, and it turns out to be a much more authentic experience, than say, visiting Istanbul. Of course, that’s a visit I do intend to make as soon as I can, and it will even be nice to have more and better English speakers readily available. But I’ve enjoyed Antep so far.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Çay the Turkish Way
First, you need the appropriate materials. The first one of these is the right teapot. I bought one today, which you can see here:
As you can see, the teapot comes in two parts, a smaller pot and a larger pot. You’ll understand why after you read the rest of this post.
The second thing, of course, is the çay itself. To make Turkish çay the right way, you use tea leaves independent of any bag or other cumbersome package. For an example of Turkish çay:
No çay is complete without the right glass to serve it in. In Turkey, they use glasses like the following, and a small teaspoon:
This brings us to Step One. Fill the small pot with a little bit of water, and a whole lot of tea, à la photo:
Simple enough, Step Two is to fill the bigger pot with water. Below it shows this:
Step Three is also pretty straightforward. Just put the small pot of tea on top of the large pot of water, ah like so:
Then you heat to boiling, then turn your range top to low or off. Allow the tea to seep for ten minutes after boiling.
Then pour the tea itself from the small pot, but just a little bit:
This nearly pure tea by itself is too strong even for the Turks, so you have to water it down with the water from the big pot:
Add sugar cubes (cafes usually give you packs of two) to suit your taste, and buyurun: the perfect glass of Turkish tea. You can use the same pots for making Turkish coffee, but that will be a post for later.